Modern boot manufacturers use a lot of tools and machines to craft footwear for their customers, from awls and trimmers to die cutters and stitching and sewing machines. But maybe the most important “tool” of all is the last.
A shoe last is a mold made of hardwood or high-density plastic that resembles a human foot in shape, and designing the lasts for a style is one of the first steps in work boot design and construction. Using CAD software, lasts are designed and specially crafted for fit, style, and size, producing a range of lasts to make all the sizes and styles of particular work boots for men or women, for the left and right foot. These lasts define the shape of the boot produced–its width, its length, the toe shape, heel height, arch, and how the upper fits over the top of the foot. Our lasts for women’s boots are different from our lasts for men’s because women’s foot anatomy is a little different from men’s–typically with higher arches.
Thorogood uses high-density polyethylene plastic to produce the lasts for its various series of boots, because of the material’s ability to withstand contact with wetted leather and strong pressure. These lasts determine everything from how well the boot fits around your foot as you move and work to the overall durability of the boot itself.
DURABILITY IN DESIGN
The shape of a boot has to be finely tuned. A good boot last will produce a boot that is structurally sound and maintains its shape over time and hard use. It needs to be perfectly aligned not just with the shape of your foot, but with the other parts of the boot–the boot’s upper must be aligned to the outsole in such a way that the boot wears down evenly over time, preventing premature breakdown of any part and extending the usable life of the boot.
COMFORTABLE WORK BOOTS & FOOT HEALTH
Boot lasts must take into account the anatomical shape of a foot, distributing weight evenly across the platform of the outsole and supporting proper foot and toe alignment. Improper alignment can lead to foot ailments like painful bunions. Bunions form when the big toe is pushed out of alignment. The tip of your toe gets pushed toward the smaller toes and forces the joint at its base to stick out. To prevent this, the boot must be made with sufficient space along the sides, especially around the toe box, so that toes can splay naturally as you put weight on them and move around, putting pressure on different parts of the boot. However, too much space causes problems of its own. The last needs to hold your foot firmly in place while you move, avoiding both fatigue and the hot spots and rubbing that lead to blisters.
CHOOSING YOUR BOOT
When shopping for work boots, it’s important to consider the type of work you’ll be doing, because different styles are constructed using lasts that shape the boot in specific ways. For example, the American Heritage 8” Tobacco Non-Safety Toe Wedge boot and the Logger Series 9” Crazy Horse Insulated Waterproof boot are both tall, round-toe lace-up work boots. However, to fit the same foot, the unlined American Heritage boot uses a last that is narrower than the Logger, which has to take into account the space inside the boot which is taken up by the waterproof lining and insulation. The logger’s heel means that your foot will be shaped differently when you put your weight down, and lasts for heeled boots must also account for that. Another last is used to produce comfortable steel toe boots in the same style, providing space for the toe cap. Meanwhile, slip-on Western boots are constructed using lasts that factor in the lack of laces, emphasizing the stability of the boot around your foot to keep it in place even as the wider shaft provides freedom of ankle motion.
The Genesis Series uses an innovative “combination last” in its construction. This combination last was specially designed to produce comfortable boots that fit snugly at the rear but flare out a bit around the front, locking your heels in place for enhanced stability while at the same time providing extra toe room. This allows abundant space for your toes to splay while you maneuver, both improving movement and reducing fatigue on long days.
Whatever type of boot you choose, the result of all these factors and calculations should be a boot that fits as naturally as possible. Look at the overall shape of the boot’s upper. Make sure it accurately reflects the shape of the foot, without changes that may make aesthetic sense but are going to lead to pinching, rubbing, or other problems.
When you try on a boot, choose a size that is long enough for your foot, but don’t forget to pay attention to the width of the boots. Thorogood uses different lasts for different width sizes as well, so you can find the pair that fits your feet in all dimensions. Unlined leather boots usually have a break-in period for the leather to mold itself around your particular foot. But when trying on a boot, pay attention to how it fits from the start. A properly-constructed work boot should be snug, but without restricting movement or causing discomfort. Flex your toes in the boots, making sure there is sufficient room, as the toe box will not break in as much as other parts of the upper. A secure heel fit is one of the most important things to look for when choosing your boots, since during fast-paced work, a loose, “sloppy” heel is going to slow you down, create friction points, and force you to unconsciously use your toes to steady your foot within the boots, greatly increasing fatigue. When you settle your weight on the boots, you should feel stable, planted, without tilt or uneven pressure against any one area of your foot.
Work boots have to take a lot of punishment. Crafting comfortable boots for men and women with the toughest jobs means starting with the right kind of last, so that when we craft each boot from the highest-quality components, the finished product is precisely constructed from the ground up for support, protection, and durability. And boot lasts are the foundation of the finished product’s functionality and comfort.